Adulting is all about making tough choices. If you frequent a nail salon monthly or bi-weekly for fresh claws, you understand how important it is to know the different types of manicures a salon offers (not all businesses are well-versed in the world of nails) or how one wrong shade of nude can make you an unhappy camper.
What I love most about a trip to the nail salon is it’s basically an oasis of endless possibilities. Most trips to the salon still begin with me staring down the “services” menu trying to figure out if I’ll stick to a regular manicure or treat myself to something more creative like a shellac manicure or french manicure. Then, I factor in how much time I have to spare, consider extra add-ons like massages and hot oil treatments, and ponder designs, all before I even sit down to begin the treatment. Who said a trip to the nail salon was stress-free?
If you struggle with indecisiveness, I turned to Vivian Cardenas of NYC-based nail salon Vanity Projects and Miki Higuchi of NYC’s Aikiko Nails to break down every type of manicure, so you are well-educated the next time you hit the salon.
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Basic Manicure
$10-$15
Who’s it for? Basic manicures are great for anyone with a no-fuss approach to their nails. Patience is key! If you simply need a clean-up and polish (keep in mind you will have to wait a bit for your nails to dry), then a standard manicure is right up your alley.
A basic manicure is your standard manicure. “The nail tech will start off by soaking your hands in warm soapy water to soothe and soften dead skin cells,” Higuchi says. “Then, the nail tech will file and buff, clean the cuticle, and massage your hands with hand cream. Painting the base coat, color, and top coat is next, and then a cuticle oil is applied.”
How long does it take? A basic manicure takes up to 30 minutes.
How long does it last? A basic manicure can last anywhere up to seven days.
How do you remove it? The polish can be removed with nail polish remover or acetone.
Does it damage the nail? No. A basic manicure can go a long way in helping to revive your nails, hydrating them, and keeping good nail health by trimming your nails/cuticles regularly.
Gel Manicure
$25 and up
Who’s it for? “Gel manicures are great for anyone with an active lifestyle that needs a manicure to last between 2-3 weeks without any chipping, peeling, or cracking,” celebrity manicurist and the mastermind behind the viral #glazeddonutnails, Zola Ganzorigt, tells ELLE.com.
Unlike a basic manicure, a gel manicure requires the nails to be cured under a UV or LED lamp. “Nails are prepped before gel polish is applied and cured. But since people are more into DIY nails these days, I always point my clients to Dashing Diva for an affordable, friendly solution to getting salon-style gel nails at home,” she explains. Looking to mimic the gel manicure look? Dashing Diva also has a line of nail strips that are semi-cured and look similar to a salon-fresh manicure.
How long does it take? A one-color gel manicure takes up to 45 minutes.
How long does it last? A gel manicure can last anywhere between 2 to 3 weeks.
How do you remove it? Gel polish is removed with an acetone soak-off, but it’s best to return to the salon for take-off.
Does it damage the nail? A gel manicure should not affect nail health if done and removed by a professional technician. A client risks damaging their nails when they peel, chip, or lift the gel polish, as they are removing it improperly.
Acrylic Overlay
$25 and up
Who’s it for? Acrylic overlays work best for those who want the longevity of a gel manicure with a little more reinforcement. The acrylic forms a stronger base for the gel or regular nail polish, which helps your manicure stay on longer.
An acrylic overlay combines a liquid monomer and powder polymer, creating a hard protective layer over your natural nail.
How long does it take? An acrylic overlay manicure can take up to an hour and 30 minutes.
How is it done? “Acrylic manicure has the same steps as a gel manicure but uses liquid monomer and a powder polymer to build over the natural nail and is then coated with polish or cured with a UV light should the client get a gel manicure on top,” Cardenas explains.
How long does it last? An acrylic overlay can last up to 2-3 weeks.
How do you remove it? An acrylic overlay is soaked off with acetone.
Does it damage the nail? If it’s done and removed by a professional technician, no.
French Manicure
$30 and up
Who’s it for? If you love a classic, “clean girl” look, French manis should be your go-to. Of course, finding the perfect nude base is no easy feat, but everyone can agree that OPI’s Bubble Bath is a crowd favorite.
The 2000s french manicure is back, y’all! “A French manicure is a manicure that has a sheer pink or beige tone with a white polish tip on each nail,” Cardenas says.
How long does it take? A French manicure can take up to 45 min to an hour.
How is it done? A French manicure is done by servicing a basic manicure and applying a sheer pink or beige tone and a white polish tip on each nail.
How long does it last? A French manicure can last up to two to three weeks if done in gel or up to seven days if done in regular polish.
How do you remove it? It can be removed with acetone if in gel or with nail polish remover if done in regular polish.
Does it damage the nail? It should not affect nail health if done and removed by a professional technician.
American Manicure
$30 and up
Who’s it for? Someone who absolutely loves the look of natural nails.
If a French manicure is too 2000s for you, opt for an American manicure. “This is a simple nail design mimicking your natural nails using a flesh- or cream-colored base and a nude or off-white tip,” Higuchi explains.
How long does it take? An American manicure can take up to 45min to an hour.
How is it done? The nails are filed and buffed, cuticles are cleaned, and then a base coat—usually a flesh or cream color—is applied. Then, the nail tips are painted with light or white polish, a top coat, and cuticle oil is added for moisturization.
How long does it last? It can last up to two weeks.
How do you remove it? You can soak it off.
How does it affect nail health? It will only get damaged if the procedure isn’t performed by a professional nail technician.
Shellac Manicure
$25 and up
Who’s it for? A Shellac manicure is great for someone who wants to reduce damage to their nail, as shellac polishes are super easy to remove—no nail drill needed.
Regular nail polish takes a long time to dry and gel can sometimes lead to damage if removed incorrectly—a shellac manicure is your happy medium. “Shellac is the brand name,” Higuchi says. “It’s a patent pending nail product created by Creative Nail Design (CND). It is a hybrid, meaning half nail polish, half gel, and can be applied similarly to nail polish on your natural nails. It is cured through UV lighting.”
How long does it take? A shellac manicure can take up to 45 min.
How is it done? It follows the same steps as a gel manicure.
How long does it last? A shellac manicure can last up to three weeks.
How do you remove it? A shellac manicure can be removed with acetone.
Does it damage the nail? You can risk damaging your nails if you peel or remove the product incorrectly.
Paraffin Manicure
$40 and up
Who’s it for? Those who enjoy the massage part of a manicure will absolutely love a paraffin manicure. This type of manicure is also great if you have chronically dry hands.
Feeling bougie? Add a paraffin manicure to your nail treatment, which hydrates the skin. “A paraffin manicure is known for its treatment of extremely dry skin. The heat of the wax opens the pores and increases circulation to the hands,” Higuchi says. “A paraffin treatment can also temporarily alleviate sore muscles and joints.”
How long does it take? About 50 minutes
How is it done? First, you heat up the wax, then dip the hands in the wax and wait for about 20-30 minutes. After that, you peel the wax off and massage a lotion or cream onto the hands.
How long does it last? Anywhere from one to two weeks.
How is it removed? You would soak off the manicure.
Does it damage the nail? No
Reverse French Manicure
$30 and up
Who’s it for? Someone who likes French manicures with a unique twist.
A reverse french manicure is the reverse take on the classic french and highlights the lower part of your nail, known as the “half moon.”
How long does it take? A reverse french manicure takes up to 45 minutes to one hour.
How is it done? A reverse French manicure is done by servicing a basic manicure, applying a color of choice, and highlighting the half moon of the nail.
How long does it last? It can last up to three weeks if done in gel or up to seven days if done in polish.
How do you take it off? A reverse french manicure can be removed with acetone if in gel or with nail polish remover if done in polish.
Does it damage the nail? It should not affect nail health if done and removed by a professional technician.
Hot Stone
$40 and up
Who’s it for? A hot stone massage is for someone who frequents a spa or doesn’t mind spending a few extra dollars for relaxation.
“A hot stone manicure is a therapeutic manicure that requires the use of a hot stone during the service of a basic manicure with warm stones, nourishing oils, and a therapeutic massage,” Cardenas says.
How long does it take? A basic manicure service with hot stones is a 50 minute service.
How is it done? A hot stone manicure is a treatment completed before applying gel/polish and includes warm stones, exfoliation, nourishing oils, and a therapeutic massage.
How do you take it off? You remove the hot stone and clean off any excess oils on the hand.
Does it damage the nail? No, a hot stone manicure is a therapeutic service that promotes relief and restorative treatment to the hands.
Dip Powder Manicure
Who’s it for? Dip powder manicures work best for those who want a bit more nail strength and long-lasting color.
Another happy medium, “a dip powder manicure falls between a regular mani and a fake acrylic nail,” Higuchi says. “Instead of using UV rays to seal in your polish, the color comes from a pigmented powder.”
How long does it take? About 40 minutes
How is it done? A base coat is applied to the nail; then, the nail is dipped into a powder and sealed with a top coat.
How long does it last? About three weeks
How do you take it off? You can soak it off
Does it damage the nails? No
What does aftercare look like?
Since many of these manicures require lots of tools and stress to the nail, Zola Ganzorigt recommends investing in a good cuticle oil.
Also, keep your nails away from boxes. “I know this can be hard, but it’s also good practice to not use your nails as a tool. Things like opening boxes and cans or doing household chores are always hard on a manicure. Wear gloves to protect your manicure,” she adds. “Another good tip that I share with my clients is to try nail strips or press-on nails instead of polish – they are much easier and faster to replace if needed than polish (extras come in the pack!).”
Beauty Commerce Editor
Nerisha is the beauty commerce editor at ELLE.com, covering all things beauty (and fashion and music). She has a penchant for sneakers and nude lip glosses, and spends way too much time re-watching 90s sitcoms.